Hungary has one of Central Europe’s most interesting wine traditions, and one of its most internationally neglected. Tokaj Aszú was described by Louis XIV of France as “the wine of kings and the king of wines.” The phylloxera blight and communist-era cooperative viticulture reduced the international reputation nearly to zero. The recovery since 1989 has been substantial.
Tokaj: The Wine of Kings
The Tokaj wine region in northeastern Hungary produces one of the world’s great dessert wine traditions. Tokaj Aszú is made from grapes affected by Botrytis cinerea (noble rot), which dehydrates the grape and concentrates sugars and acids to produce extraordinary complexity. The Aszú wines are rated in puttonyos (3 to 6; higher numbers indicate greater sweetness). The Eszencia, made from the free-run juice of botrytised grapes with almost undrinkable sweetness levels but extraordinary complexity, is arguably the most technically remarkable wine produced anywhere in the world.
The region also produces dry Furmint of high quality: mineral, stone-fruit, and distinctively Hungarian in character.
Eger: Bull’s Blood Country
Eger in northeastern Hungary, 1.5 hours from Budapest by train, produces the Egri Bikavér (Bull’s Blood of Eger): a red blend historically made with Kékfrankos and other varieties, producing a robust full-bodied red with good tannic structure.
The Valley of the Beautiful Women (Szépasszony-völgy) outside Eger is the most accessible wine-tasting destination in Hungary: a valley of wine cellars carved into volcanic rock where visitors walk from cellar to cellar tasting. The atmosphere is convivial, the prices are low, and the quality among the better producers is excellent.
Badacsony: Volcanic Whites on the Balaton
The volcanic hills of Badacsony on Lake Balaton’s north shore produce whites of notable mineral character. The primary grape is Olasz Rizling (Welschriesling), which on the volcanic soils produces wines with mineral intensity not found elsewhere in Hungary. Szürkebarát (Pinot Gris) and Kéknyelű are other significant varieties.
Villány: Hungary’s Best Reds
Villány in southern Hungary produces the best red wines in Hungary. The primary varieties are Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Kékfrankos, producing full-bodied structured reds with good ageing potential. Villány is widely regarded as Hungary’s leading red wine region.
Where to Buy Hungarian Wine in Budapest
Wine stalls at the Central Market Hall carry small-producer wines at competitive prices. The Bortársaság wine shop chain has several Budapest locations and a strong regional selection. Wine bars in the Jewish Quarter are a good introduction. Many focus on small Hungarian producers, but bars change, so check what is open.
Related: Food and Wine Hub | Pálinka Guide | Lake Balaton